Shift Arm: motor, such as the recoil housing, the limited arc of the shift leverIf the shift arm is in any way contacting any part of the before it hits the motor may not be enough to impart enough rotation to the shift drum, causing a "missed" shift.
Pinch Clamp:
It seems the clamp bolt always works itself loose but is never tightened. When the pinch clamp is left in a less than tight condition, the clamp splines as well as the matching splines on the shift shaft wear. Wear on the shift lever can be easily repaired by the purchase of a new, easily replaced lever. Replacement of the shift shaft is much harder, and more expensive. And, No, WE do not WELD the shift lever to the shift shaft! If you find the "C" clamp is not tightening up on the shift shaft, even though the bolt is tight, DO NOT KEEP TIGHTENING THE BOLT! When it breaks, the shift lever is left loose and you will not be able to remove the shift lever! It is better to check for a gap in the "C" of the clamp. If the gap is non-existent, the fix is to place the shift lever in a vise and squeeze the "C" gap until closed. Use a hacksaw to make a cut down between the "C" of the clamp. Retighten the vise and re-cut the slot a second time. When reinstalled on the worn shift shaft, the shift levers "C" clamp will now tighten up, providing there are any splines left to bite into.
Misaligned Shift Pad:
The next item to address is the height of the shift pad. Generally, the shift pad should be aligned, height-wise, with the top of the
footpeg. This one is obviously low! Some manufacturers, such as Honda, dimple a mark into the end of the shift shaft that is meant to be aligned with a corresponding mark on the shift levers "C" clamp. On some machines, the lever throw required to make an up shift is so great that a human ankle simply can not rotate high enough. In this case, removing the shift lever and lowering it one spline can make riding much more enjoyable.
